Channel Pumps
Guide·11 min read

What happens if a submersible pump runs dry?

Written and reviewed by Paul Foster, Founder·Last updated

A submersible pump that runs dry usually loses its mechanical seal.

The seal faces need liquid to lubricate and cool them; take the liquid away and they wear, overheat and let the medium into the oil chamber. The motor loses its cooling at the same time, because the medium around it is what carries the heat away.

The seal goes first

A mechanical seal needs liquid to lubricate it. Almost every part of what a dry run does to a submersible pump follows from that one sentence. The two seal faces run against each other separated by a fluid film that John Crane puts at about one thirtieth the width of a human hair, and that film is what holds them apart. For the seal to function, the faces need a process fluid or a gas for cooling and lubrication. Take the liquid away and they run on each other, generate heat with nothing to carry it off, and wear.

On a submersible pump a failing seal shows up in one place. Between the wet end and the motor sits an oil chamber with a seal at each end of it. When the lower seal goes, pumped medium works its way into the oil. Drain it and you get a milky emulsion instead of clean oil, and that is the tell that a seal has failed. A station that monitors its pumps sees it earlier than that, because a moisture probe in the oil chamber raises a seal-failure alarm while the upper seal is still holding.

The useful part of that arrangement is that it buys you a stripdown rather than a scrap. Catch it at the seal-failure alarm and you are changing seals and oil. Ignore it and the medium eventually reaches the windings, and then you are rewinding a motor or buying a pump. On a duty-and-standby set the cheap version of this is to act on the alarm and run the standby while the pump comes out.

Dry running is one of the three things that kill pumps on wastewater

On a sewage works three causes account for most of what fails, and dry running is the third of them.

First is rag and solids build-up. Wipes and fibre bind up the wet end, and the pump loses its duty long before it loses a component. Second is grit, which usually means the grit removal on the works is not doing its job. Grit abrades, wear follows, and the pump fails early. Third is dry running, and unlike the first two it is nearly always something the installation did rather than something the medium did.

We put it third because it is the least common of the three, not because it is the mildest. Rag and grit degrade a pump over months and give you warning. A dry run can take a seal out in a single unattended night shift, and the pump gives no warning at all unless something on the panel is watching for it.

Rag and grit are answerable at the specification stage. Put a solids-handling pump in and the first cause largely goes away. Dry running is the one no choice of pump saves you from, because the fault is in the system the pump sits in.

What actually breaks depends on the pump type

The same fault carries three different price tags, and which one you get is decided by the pump type long before anything goes wrong.

Pump typeWhat a dry run costs you
Progressing cavityA burnt stator and a damaged rotor. You replace both.
Rotary lobeA failed mechanical seal. The wet end survives.
Centrifugal, including most submersiblesA failed mechanical seal, and the motor too if it is unsubmerged at the same time.
Double discNothing. It has no mechanical seals to lose.

On a progressing cavity pump it is catastrophic. The rotor turns inside an elastomer stator and relies on the medium to lubricate that interface. Run it dry and it burns through the stator and damages the rotor as well, so you are replacing both. That is why progressing cavity pumps are the type we are most insistent about protecting.

On a rotary lobe pump the rotors never touch each other, so a dry run does not destroy the wet end. What goes is the mechanical seal, starved of the liquid it needs to lubricate it. That is a stripdown rather than a write-off, and it holds for rotary lobe pumps in hygienic and heavy-duty form alike.

On a centrifugal pump, which covers most submersible pumps, the usual result is again a failed mechanical seal. The impeller touches nothing, so it survives. The submersible case adds the motor, since the motor is normally cooled by the medium around it and a dry run takes that cooling away at the same moment it takes the seal's.

Then there is the pump with no mechanical seal to lose. A double disc pump can run dry, because it has no mechanical seals in it. That matters more on sludge than anywhere else. Rag, grit and dry running are the three things that kill pumps on a sewage works, and a double disc shrugs off all three, which is why it keeps coming up on duties that chew through conventional pumps.

Running dry and running unsubmerged are not quite the same fault

Two things fail on a submersible pump when the level drops, and they fail on different clocks.

The seal loses its lubrication when the wet end stops passing liquid. The motor loses its cooling when the casing is no longer surrounded by medium. Those usually happen together, but not always. A pump sitting high in a wet well can still be passing liquid up the column while the motor housing is in air, and a pump snoring on a falling level is passing air and liquid in turn while the motor is still submerged. The failure you get depends on which one you have.

There is a variant that changes the answer. Some submersible and dry-installed units carry a cooling jacket, so a coolant circuit takes the heat off the motor instead of the surrounding medium. Those units tolerate being unsubmerged in a way a jacketless pump does not. It is a build option, not a property of the type, so it is a question about the specific unit rather than about submersible pumps in general.

How long a given pump survives either condition is the manufacturer's figure, for that model and that build, and it belongs to them. Read it off the installation and operating manual for the unit you have, with the model and serial number from the nameplate in hand. A number picked up from a forum for a different pump is worth nothing, and acting on one is how a repairable seal failure becomes a rewind.

The cause is almost always the suction conditions, not the pump

Dry running is a symptom. The fault is nearly always upstream of the pump, and the pump gets blamed for it.

The two we see most often are a suction tank that is too small and a suction head that is too small. Either one means the pump is capable of emptying its own supply, so the level falls to the point where the wet end is passing air and the pump has no way of knowing it should stop. That is a system fault presenting as a pump fault, which is the pattern behind most of what lands on our desk. A pump specified in isolation from the pipework, the tank and the level control will find whichever of the three is weakest.

Oversizing gets there by a different road and ends in the same place. Margin stacks: the customer states a flow, the consultant adds some for future duty, the contractor adds some, the installer adds a bit more. Nobody in that chain is careless and the pump that comes out of it is far too big. Size for 10 m³/h when the tank will only give you 5 m³/h and the pump empties the tank and pumps air. NPSHa has to exceed NPSHr at the duty point on the curve, and when it does not you cavitate. Our pump selection guide sets out the order those questions actually get asked in.

Then there is the one with no engineering in it at all. Somebody shuts a valve, forgets it is shut, and runs the pump. Same outcome, same failed seal, no design fault involved, and it happens on well-run sites. If you are working back from a dry run and the suction design checks out, check the valves before you conclude anything about the pump.

Work back to the cause in this order

A pump that has run dry once will run dry again unless something in the system changed. Take the causes in the order that clears the cheapest and most likely first.

1

Check the valve positions

Walk the suction line and confirm every valve is where it should be, including any that were closed for other work and not reopened. It costs nothing to rule out and it explains more dry runs than anyone likes to admit.

2

Check the level control

Confirm the stop level on the float switch, electrodes or level transducer, and confirm it still matches the minimum submergence the manufacturer specifies for that unit. Controls get moved, floats get tangled on rag, and the stop level drifts down.

3

Check the wet well or suction tank against the duty

Work out how long the pump takes to empty the available volume at its actual flow, and compare that with how fast the inflow refills it. If the pump wins, the tank is too small for the pump and no amount of protection changes that.

4

Check the duty point against the curve

Read the actual duty point off the performance curve rather than the one on the specification. A pump running off the end of its curve is moving more than anyone intended, which is usually why it is emptying its own supply.

Protection is a backstop, not a fix

Fit dry-run protection, then go and fix the reason it would ever operate.

The usual arrangements are a low-level float or electrode set that inhibits the start, a motor power or current monitor that spots the drop in absorbed power when the pump loses its prime, thermal sensors in the windings, and a moisture probe in the oil chamber that flags a seal failure before the motor is at risk. On a wastewater station a level transducer with a float as the independent backstop is the standard belt-and-braces arrangement, because a transducer in a wet well is one rag away from reading nonsense.

Protection costs you something, though, and it is worth saying what. Every one of those devices works by stopping the pump, and a pump that keeps stopping on a station with no standby is a station that overflows. You have converted a mechanical failure into an operational one. Nearly always the right trade, but it is a trade, and it is the argument for duty and standby on any station where a stop means a spill.

The honest verdict is the unglamorous one. If your pump is tripping on dry run, the protection is working and the installation is wrong. Send us the flow, the head, the medium and the tank volume and we will tell you which of the two needs changing, even when the answer is that the pump you already have is fine.

Frequently asked

Can a submersible pump run dry?

Briefly, and not by design. The mechanical seal needs liquid to lubricate it and the motor is normally cooled by the medium around it, so a dry run attacks both at once. Treat any dry run as a fault to investigate rather than something the pump shrugs off.

How long can a submersible pump run dry before it is damaged?

That figure belongs to the manufacturer of the specific unit and is published in its installation and operating manual. Take the model and serial number off the nameplate and use the manufacturer's number, not a general one, because build options such as a cooling jacket change the answer completely.

What are the signs a submersible pump has run dry?

Milky or emulsified oil when you drain the oil chamber is the clearest one, and it means the lower seal has let medium past. Before that, a moisture probe raises a seal-failure alarm, and a power monitor shows absorbed power dropping as the pump loses its prime.

Does running dry damage the motor or just the seal?

The seal almost always, the motor only if the fault runs on. The seal fails first and lets medium into the oil chamber; the motor is at risk once medium reaches the windings, or once the housing sits out of the medium long enough to lose its cooling.

Why does my submersible pump keep running dry?

Usually because the suction tank or the suction head is too small for the pump, so the pump can empty its own supply. A shut valve nobody reopened and a stop level that has drifted down are the other two common explanations, and both are cheaper to check first.

Is a dry-run failure worth repairing?

On a centrifugal or rotary lobe pump, usually yes, because it is a seal and oil change rather than a new pump. On a progressing cavity pump it is a harder sum, since a dry run burns through the stator and damages the rotor as well.

Sources
  1. 1John Crane — What is a mechanical seal? Types and uses